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Stone Walls from
more ScaryGuys!
We always want to hear how you have improved or changed our projects.
Here's some great ideas and variations for the Stone Walls. Thanks, ScaryGuys!
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Here's a great tip from Ben
Dickinson:
I build these walls to look exactly like brick and stone for photograhpy
studios (and myself) and one of the quickest but definately messy ways
to get that "perfect"look is the following:
Prep the board the way you normally would (remove the plastic etc) but
instead of using sand paper first, use a brass or steel polishing wheel
brush on a drill. You can, with experience, manipulate this with much
deeper gouges and makes mortar lining a snap. I usually draw the morter
lines in first then use the drill. You can get an 8x4 done in about 15
min!! Then if you want some realistic cracks, use a soldering iron and
form them in. Unfortunately, I have found no quick way to paint this,
as I'm sure you know that stuff absorbs paint a lot.
Ben's website is at: http://www.geocities.com/deadlycreations/home.html
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Some thoughts & tips from Bob Sprong:
I was wondering as I jumped from one cool prop the the next cool prop,
I thought that one could use the stone template mold to mark a sheet of
insulation foam board. I would mount the stone mold template to a small
sheet of plywood, position the template on the foam board, and stand on
it, creating an indentation in the foam board, then use a utility knife
and cut out the stones. form the edges and stack identical pieces in groups.
Then use a caulking gun with liquid nails, and adhere the stones in place.
Paint as desired, but I would add the grout lines last.
I use my bender to create arches, simply apply a slight bend to the pipe,
slip it into the bender a little, bend it slightly again, slip it ahead
a little again, apply another slight bend, and keep repeating the proccess.
Once you reach the center, pull out the pipe, and start again from the
other end. with a little practice, you can create great arcs in conduit.
By applying a slightly more of a bend, or closer bends, you can create
a tighter radius, use one large radius, and a smaller radius to create
a double arc, then use flexible copper tubing to create spirals and swirls
to fill in between the arcs. rill bolt the pieces together. And you have
one @$$ kickin' arch for a gate or an entrance. Another cheap way to create
swirls is to use garden hose, and slide a much smaller flexible copper
tubing into it. If you clip off the ends, you have some thicker swirels.
It all gets painted black. The nice thing is that will collapse, (you
can take it all apart,) and stow it in the attic for next year. You can
also use the screw type couplings to attatch conduit together. (DON'T
use the compression style couplings, they will come LOOSE!) With a coupling,
you can create larger arches, I would not exceed anything more than tweny
feet of conduit. Anchor the conduit into 4x4s by drilling holes into the
ends with a paddle bit or wood boring drill bit large enough to accept
the 1/2" thinwall conduit. by (temporarily,) setting a ten foot post 2'
into the ground, you can set yourself up with a real nice arch and gate.
and it will pull out easy after the haunting is over.
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A great tip from Chardo:
I achieved great "spalling" effects on foam by spraying small amounts
of brake parts cleaner out of a can....it melts the foam and , when
accented, looks like weathered stone!
(I should add that brake cleaner - and any solvent
for that matter - is very poisonous - so only do this in a well ventilated
area, and be very, very careful! - Cliff)
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Variations by Tim Vannaman:
I used the white styrofoam (4x8) sheets and painted the whole thing
grey. I used light coats since the paint eats away at the foam (which
gives it a good texture). I then marked off where the joints would
be and used black spray paint, only I put the can closer to the foam.
The foam would melt and deform to form a concave valley which looked
just like a real mortar joint. I then took some neon green and put
a slight mist over the whole thing for aging. The neon green also
shows up well under a black light.
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Variations by Bob Cripe:
My hobby is building sets for stage productions. Some years ago I
helped build a set where we used foam sheets to make walls and a bridge,
etc. for a production of Oliver! We didn't cut the sheets into individual
stones; we just used a rotary rasp in a drill to cut in grout lines
and sanding disks to contour the individual stones. (Really messy!
Zillions of tiny foam particles everywhere.) We painted them about
the same way, although we also used spounges with the darker (second
color) for texturing. They turned out real well. Great fun!!
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Variations by Mike Johnson:
I saw the way that you made the walls. This is how we made them at
the theater that I worked at, 1 draw the pattern that you want with
a marker, 2 take a soldering iron ( the larger the tip the better)
and melt the foam (not going all the way through), 3 take a propane
torch and lightly take the flame to the foam and you come away with
a very realistic texture. Do all of this in WELL ventilated area.
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